In Praiano, you can walk up the steps from the Portapenta apartments to the small piazza where the Hotel Margherita is located. We weren’t staying there, but we found them to be really helpful for carryout pizza and giving us directions to things.
We asked about the best way to reach the Sentiero degli Dei, the ancient Roman pathway that joins the towns of the Amalfi Coast like the famous trails of the Cinque Terre. Sentiero degli Dei means the ‘Pathway of the Gods’.
The woman at the reception was kind and hospitable. She brought out a map and showed us the way.
“If you go up the hill and turn right, you will find Via Costantinopoli. Follow this for about a kilometer and you will arrive at the Convento San Domenico. Continue on this way and you will be in Positano in about three hours.”
We were relieved that we would not have to descend into Praiano, as we were already in a high spot. In a short time, we were leaving the confines of the city and making our way uphill. We encountered a German tour group and passed through them politely. Likewise with a British group that we soon discovered.
The Convent of San Dominico has an ancient chapel which is sparse though beautiful. The main part of the convent shows the benefits of a new renovation completed in 2011.
Along the way, you can spend time exploring ancient abandoned farmhouses and climbing through rocky forested areas. And best of all, you can experience the beautiful view that is always with you.
At one point, we made a turn and walked into an open meadow. Something was in the air, and we really weren’t sure what it was. There was a tinkling sound all around us that soon became a sort of symphony. Beautiful. Then the first goat appeared on the trail, and there were several more in the brush alongside us. Then they were many, fully at peace with us, as we were with them. And sitting up on a promontory, the goatherd himself–smiling and watching over his flock.
Eventually, we passed through the villages of Nocelle and Montepertusso and began our long descent into Positano. It was a gorgeous and healthy walk, always on the high ground. Even though it had taken some time, it was definitely time well spent. We met our friends on the beach in Positano and told them about the encounter with the goats. They wanted to take the hike themselves!