Today’s Italy Travel Tip: Check the Average Temps at Your Destination

Posted on December 24, 2011 by

It’s always helpful to know how warm or cool it will be at your Italy accommodation. To find the average temperatures for your travel dates:

- Visit www.weather.com
- Enter your destination city in the search box and select Search
- Select ‘Historical Data’ on the right side of the page (scroll down–it’s not easy to find)
- Select the month you will be traveling

There are ‘F’ and ‘C’ links in the upper right to switch from Fahrenheit to Celsius.

Here are the average temperatures in Siena for June:
http://www.weather.com/outlook/health/fitness/wxclimatology/daily/ITXX0072?climoMonth=6

Posted in Italy Travel Tips | Leave a comment

Sentiero degli Dei – The Path from Praiano to Positano

Posted on December 12, 2011 by

In Praiano, you can walk up the steps from the Portapenta apartments to the small piazza where the Hotel Margherita is located.  We weren’t staying there, but we found them to be really helpful for carryout pizza and giving us directions to things.

We asked about the best way to reach the Sentiero degli Dei, the ancient Roman pathway that joins the towns of the Amalfi Coast like the famous trails of the Cinque Terre.  Sentiero degli Dei means the ‘Pathway of the Gods’.

The woman at the reception was kind and hospitable.  She brought out a map and showed us the way.

“If you go up the hill and turn right, you will find Via Costantinopoli.  Follow this for about a kilometer and you will arrive at the Convento San Domenico.  Continue on this way and you will be in Positano in about three hours.”

We were relieved that we would not have to descend into Praiano, as we were already in a high spot.  In a short time, we were leaving the confines of the city and making our way uphill.  We encountered a German tour group and passed through them politely.  Likewise with a British group that we soon discovered.

The Convent of San Dominico has an ancient chapel which is sparse though beautiful.  The main part of the convent shows the benefits of a new renovation completed in 2011.

Along the way, you can spend time exploring ancient abandoned farmhouses and climbing through rocky forested areas.  And best of all, you can experience the beautiful view that is always with you.

At one point, we made a turn and walked into an open meadow.  Something was in the air, and we really weren’t sure what it was.  There was a tinkling sound all around us that soon became a sort of symphony.  Beautiful.  Then the first goat appeared on the trail, and there were several more in the brush alongside us.  Then they were many, fully at peace with us, as we were with them.  And sitting up on a promontory, the goatherd himself–smiling and watching over his flock.

Eventually, we passed through the villages of Nocelle and Montepertusso and began our long descent into Positano.  It was a gorgeous and healthy walk, always on the high ground.  Even though it had taken some time, it was definitely time well spent.  We met our friends on the beach in Positano and told them about the encounter with the goats.  They wanted to take the hike themselves!

Posted in Amalfi Coast and the Islands, Italy up close | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Eating Well in the Heart of Umbria

Posted on November 24, 2011 by

Umbria is a special place to us. We started our business with Umbria villas and have made some close friends there. We’ve gotten to know it well.

Inevitably Umbria gets compared to its neighbor Tuscany, but that’s not even necessary because Umbria has a life and a spirit all its own. We recently visited Umbria and had one of the best meals ever.

The restaurant is called Refectorium and is located on the Il Convento in Campagna estate in Mantignana. A former 10th century convent, this property has always been one of our favorites. It was our first home-away from home on our debut visit to Umbria with our children in 1995. We stayed in La Torre, the original tower, and were quite taken with the frescoed altar in our bedroom.

 

So we were only too happy to revisit Il Convento in Campagna with Roberta, our Umbria partner. She enthusiastically explained to us that Refectorium had recently opened in the former cellar and that she would like to invite us to dine there with her and some of our Umbrian friends. We learned that the chef, Luca, is from Umbria and, after having worked in many restaurants in Italy and abroad, wanted to come back home to Umbria to practice his craft. Guests of Il Convento are very lucky that Luca made this decision because Refectorium is a first-rate dining experience.

We arrived early and had a glass of wine with Luca and his wife. It was early October and there was a fresh crispness to the autumn air. Upon entering the brick arched room, we felt an immediate warmth. There was a blazing fire in the large stone fireplace that was bright and welcoming. Also welcoming and warm was how the space was decorated with its original cotto floors and white clothed tables. Roberta and friends soon arrived and we all sat down to start our evening of fun and amazing dining.

Here is the menu that Roberta selected for us:

LA SCARPETTA
Sauce made with fresh tomatoes flavored with a variety of herbs and eaten with pieces of grilled bread called abbrustolito. Scarpetta means “little shoe” in Italian. Italian tradition calls for dipping the bread into the sauce and using it like a small shoe for scooping up the sauce.

ANTIPASTO REFECTORIUM
Mixed meat/cheese platter with prosciutto, salami, capocollo (salami made with pork neck (an Umbrian specialty), goose liver and fresh local sheep’s cheese; bruschetta with tomatoes, garlic and basil; sweet onion jam and peach jam.

PRIMO
Pici with goose meat sauce or Pici with truffles.
Pici pasta is an Umbrian specialty and are very thick, long, hand rolled noodles.

SECONDO
Mixed platter of grilled meats including veal, sausage, and pork
Brochette of chicken breast cooked with mixed herbs

CONTORNI
Fire roasted potatoes
Grilled mixed vegetable with herbs

DOLCE
Sacher Torte – a unique chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam and a chocolate glaze. The Sacher torte is named for Austrian Franz Sacher who invented this famous cake in 1832

Caffè and liqueur (amaro)

Umbrian red wine

Needless to say, it was a fulfilling evening, in many ways, complete with good food and good friends. We said our good-byes to Luca and his staff and stepped out into the clear Umbrian night. The lights subtly illuminating the stone structure of Il Convento in Campagna were simply magical, reminding us of how lucky we are to have Umbria in our life.

PS: Our stay this time was in Il Fienile 1. Check it out!

Posted in Italy up close, Umbria | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Cinque Terre Will Be Healed

Posted on November 16, 2011 by

It was just one month ago, on October 17th.  We took the short train trip from Manarola to Vernazza in the Cinque Terre.  It was a warm and sunny day and the main street of Vernazza was alive with visitors, taking pictures and moving from shop to shop.  We stopped in one to look for a gift for a friend.

We walked down to the harbor and noticed how blue and clear the water was.  We also saw, as we had many times in the past, how welcoming the residents of this village are to the many visitors they receive.

I snapped a few photos of my own:

Eight days later Vernazza and neighboring Monterosso were ravaged by floods that seemed to appear out of nowhere.  Each town was buried in a devastating cover of mud and debris and nine lives were lost.

Now the herculean efforts are underway and there is an outpouring of support to these fragile villages.  The residents, instead of welcoming visitors, are in for a tough winter of digging and rebuilding before the spring arrives.  Here is where you can learn more:

http://helprestorecinqueterre.wordpress.com/

http://savevernazza.com/


Posted in Cinque Terre and the Coast, Italy up close | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Valle dei Sogni and the Enchantment of Todi

Posted on November 10, 2011 by

It was a little windy when we got out of the car. This October was a different from others because the warm weather lasted so long this year. Pools were open longer and there was almost no rain for months. Some said it was good for the wine grapes but maybe bad for the olives. Whatever the case, it did nothing to spoil the native charm of Umbria.

The owners of Valle dei Sogni greeted us at the parking area and offered a warm Italian welcome with lots of smiles and kind words. It’s something they do very well here–make you feel welcome. They were clearly eager to show us the magnificent estate and we could sense their feeling of pride.

Click to enlargeAs we entered the front door, we immediately grasped why this is such a unique place. Formerly a traditional farming estate, it has been crafted into one of the most comfortable and aesthetically pleasing villas in Umbria.  The main villa can be rented alone or with its accompanying building for groups ranging from six to sixteen guests.

Valle dei Sogni is rich with oil paintings, sculptures, and carefully chosen antique pieces. Its amenities include a large and well-equipped kitchen, air conditioning, high speed Internet, an abundant herb garden and a panoramic pool. For outside meals, there is a second kitchen in the pool house.

The countryside here is blessed with gently rolling hills that provide elegant views of the noble villas in the distance. The orientation of the garden is toward Sismano Castle, which offers a gentle backdrop for the peaceful and lingering sunsets for which Italy is well known. It’s one of those things that keeps bringing us back.

The ancient city of Todi is 15 kilometers away and is easily reached by country roads. It has been touted as both the ‘most sustainable’ and ‘most livable’ city in the world. While that is much to live up to, it is a distinction well deserved. Todi never fails to charm and engage, with its marvelous Duomo, museums, shops and restaurants. Because of its appeal, it has become a mecca for artists and intellectuals from around the world, many of whom live in the neighboring estates.

If you are contemplating a stay in Umbria, consider the benefits of staying in a picture perfect country landscape. Perhaps in a villa that is at once elegant, accessible and inviting.

A place like Valle dei Sogni.

Posted in Italy up close, Umbria | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Torre Elsa is a Noble Remnant of Ancient Semifonte

Posted on November 7, 2011 by

Torre Elsa is an impressive 11th century tower that witnessed the momentous 12th century battle between Florence and the citizens of Semifonte. Threatened by Semifonte’s dominant position over the Elsa valley and its trading strength, the Florentines virtually eliminated the town of Semifonte, leaving just a handful of remains. Torre Elsa figures among these and still stands tall on its beautiful hilltop overlooking the sweeping Elsa valley.

After an extensive period of careful and painstaking renovation, the current owners have created a virtual delight with stunning views and perfect location, mid-way between Florence and Siena.

The soul and spirit of the original structure have been respectfully maintained and, at the same time, an imaginative flair has created a completely updated home with the most modern amenities and services.

Torre Elsa has 8 bedrooms, all with en suite bathrooms, and is ideal for groups of friends and families.

The Villa is comprised of two parts that connect, the old tower section and the hay barn, that are joined by a glassed-in loggia. Each has its own distinct personality. The tower (torre) has been restored preserving the old brick flooring and wooden ceiling beams. The haybarn (fienile) has more of a contemporary look.

Roses, jasmine, local plants and flowers distinguish the expansive grounds. The infinity swimming pool (10mX5m) with built in jet pool is set in a striking panoramic position overlooking the valley. This is a perfect place for relaxing and enjoying the vineyard colors changing during the different seasons.


The impressive medieval towers of San Gimignano can be seen in the distance and there is no place more enchanting to enjoy a Tuscan sunset. The furnished covered patio overlooking the countryside is especially inviting for relaxed dining and the custom-made table blends perfectly with the space.

The Petrognano hamlet is within walking distance and the village of Barberino val d’Elsa is at 3 km. Owners Enzo and Annagloria are eagerly awaiting your arrival with a complimentary Tuscan dinner, included on your first evening at Torre Elsa!

Posted in Italy up close, Tuscany | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

A Village Called Abbadia Isola

Posted on November 1, 2011 by

It was lunch time and we were promised something really special. Truth be told, pretty much everything in Italy is special, and so far on our trip we had not been disappointed with any of the venues we had visited for the mid-day pranzo.

You might say the bar was set pretty high, but even a ‘typical’ Italian lunch would be great, considering the standard any food establish would have to meet. I would have been happy with the usual, but as it turns out, this was some quite different and refreshing.

Abbadia Isola is a mysterious oasis in the midst of the Chianti countryside, within sight of the medieval perched town of Monteriggioni, which beckons from a distance. We’ve passed through it many times before, and from the gas station across from the village parking lot, you might not sense the magic that waits behind the village portal.

In the the 11th century, this area was covered with marshlands, which were worked by Benedictine monks who fashioned an area where a monastery and important church could be built. Hence the name, which means ‘abbey island’. The church was consecrated in 1173 and it is still recognized as a masterpiece of Romanesque art.

Located on the Via Francigena, Abbadia Isola occupied an important position in medieval times, as it was right on the border line of the territory of Florence and the territory of Siena. In the 14th century, with the rise of Monteriggioni as a regional center, the village began to decline in importance, although it now is a center for active restoration.

Our destination for today is the Futura Osteria, which has an interesting enough name. It’s an establishment that takes its own creative approach to cuisine, carefully and deliberately bending all the rules to present food that not only takes different, but looks different. Its presentations are at once enticing and humorous, which includes the home made breads, served in a paper bag. As our server explained “we are young, so we can do whatever we want!”

We didn’t get a chance to dine at Capitan Uncino, which was a pity because it has a nice scenic terrace in the back looking out toward Monteriggioni.

If you find yourself cruising the Chianti countryside at lunch time, or any other time for that matter, Abbadia Isola is a highly recommended stop.

For a holiday stay in this area, please consider:

Villa di Riciano - Sleeps 6 and has a wonderful view of Monteriggioni.


Villa di Marciano - Sleeps up to 15 in a great hilltop spot on the way to Castellina in Chianti.

 

Posted in Italy up close, Tuscany | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment