Today’s Italy Travel Tip: Get There by Fast Train

Posted on December 29, 2011 by

For getting around the countryside, there is nothing better than having a rental car.  But if you are going from one city to another, the train is the way to go.

Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) is the site to check for schedules from city to city.  To get there the fastest way possible, look for “Le Frecce”, Italy’s version of bullet train.

“Freccia” means “arrow”, and there are three types of them:

Frecciabianca (the white arrow) – Up to 200 kilometers/hour.  Connects Milan to Venice, Udine, Trieste, Genoa, Rome and other points.

Frecciargento (the silver arrow) – Up to 250 kilometers/hour.  Connects Rome, Venice, Verona and other points.

Frecciarossa (the red arrow) – Up to 360 kilometers/hour.   Connects Torino, Milan, Florence, Rome, Naples and Salerno.

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Today’s Italy Travel Tip: Have Some Fun Watching Italian TV

Posted on December 26, 2011 by

Recently, we were visiting the town of Gubbio in Umbria and came upon a production company making a TV series.  After asking a few questions, we learned that they were filming an episode of “Don Matteo”, a popular series on RAI TV now in its eighth season.

That night, we turned on our TV at the villa and there was Don Matteo himself, the humble priest who works closely with the Gubbio police chief to help solve mysteries and bring criminals to justice.  It was so much fun to watch.

Game shows, variety shows and talk shows are all across the dial, as well as many of your favorite series with dubbed voices.

It’s challenging if you’re not familiar with Italian, but lots of fun to watch and you increase your language skills just by listening.  Some game shows involve word play, and this can really help with vocabulary.

Here’s a link to the RAI page where you can choose from short features and some longer shows.  The most popular series may be limited to Italy viewers, but there is still a lot to watch:

http://www.rai.tv/dl/RaiTV/homeTv.html

The other major network, Mediaset, can be found here online:

http://www.video.mediaset.it/

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Today’s Italy Travel Tip: Check the Average Temps at Your Destination

Posted on December 24, 2011 by

It’s always helpful to know how warm or cool it will be at your Italy accommodation. To find the average temperatures for your travel dates:

- Visit www.weather.com
- Enter your destination city in the search box and select Search
- Select ‘Historical Data’ on the right side of the page (scroll down–it’s not easy to find)
- Select the month you will be traveling

There are ‘F’ and ‘C’ links in the upper right to switch from Fahrenheit to Celsius.

Here are the average temperatures in Siena for June:
http://www.weather.com/outlook/health/fitness/wxclimatology/daily/ITXX0072?climoMonth=6

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Sentiero degli Dei – The Path from Praiano to Positano

Posted on December 12, 2011 by

In Praiano, you can walk up the steps from the Portapenta apartments to the small piazza where the Hotel Margherita is located.  We weren’t staying there, but we found them to be really helpful for carryout pizza and giving us directions to things.

We asked about the best way to reach the Sentiero degli Dei, the ancient Roman pathway that joins the towns of the Amalfi Coast like the famous trails of the Cinque Terre.  Sentiero degli Dei means the ‘Pathway of the Gods’.

The woman at the reception was kind and hospitable.  She brought out a map and showed us the way.

“If you go up the hill and turn right, you will find Via Costantinopoli.  Follow this for about a kilometer and you will arrive at the Convento San Domenico.  Continue on this way and you will be in Positano in about three hours.”

We were relieved that we would not have to descend into Praiano, as we were already in a high spot.  In a short time, we were leaving the confines of the city and making our way uphill.  We encountered a German tour group and passed through them politely.  Likewise with a British group that we soon discovered.

The Convent of San Dominico has an ancient chapel which is sparse though beautiful.  The main part of the convent shows the benefits of a new renovation completed in 2011.

Along the way, you can spend time exploring ancient abandoned farmhouses and climbing through rocky forested areas.  And best of all, you can experience the beautiful view that is always with you.

At one point, we made a turn and walked into an open meadow.  Something was in the air, and we really weren’t sure what it was.  There was a tinkling sound all around us that soon became a sort of symphony.  Beautiful.  Then the first goat appeared on the trail, and there were several more in the brush alongside us.  Then they were many, fully at peace with us, as we were with them.  And sitting up on a promontory, the goatherd himself–smiling and watching over his flock.

Eventually, we passed through the villages of Nocelle and Montepertusso and began our long descent into Positano.  It was a gorgeous and healthy walk, always on the high ground.  Even though it had taken some time, it was definitely time well spent.  We met our friends on the beach in Positano and told them about the encounter with the goats.  They wanted to take the hike themselves!

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Eating Well in the Heart of Umbria

Posted on November 24, 2011 by

Umbria is a special place to us. We started our business with Umbria villas and have made some close friends there. We’ve gotten to know it well.

Inevitably Umbria gets compared to its neighbor Tuscany, but that’s not even necessary because Umbria has a life and a spirit all its own. We recently visited Umbria and had one of the best meals ever.

The restaurant is called Refectorium and is located on the Il Convento in Campagna estate in Mantignana. A former 10th century convent, this property has always been one of our favorites. It was our first home-away from home on our debut visit to Umbria with our children in 1995. We stayed in La Torre, the original tower, and were quite taken with the frescoed altar in our bedroom.

 

So we were only too happy to revisit Il Convento in Campagna with Roberta, our Umbria partner. She enthusiastically explained to us that Refectorium had recently opened in the former cellar and that she would like to invite us to dine there with her and some of our Umbrian friends. We learned that the chef, Luca, is from Umbria and, after having worked in many restaurants in Italy and abroad, wanted to come back home to Umbria to practice his craft. Guests of Il Convento are very lucky that Luca made this decision because Refectorium is a first-rate dining experience.

We arrived early and had a glass of wine with Luca and his wife. It was early October and there was a fresh crispness to the autumn air. Upon entering the brick arched room, we felt an immediate warmth. There was a blazing fire in the large stone fireplace that was bright and welcoming. Also welcoming and warm was how the space was decorated with its original cotto floors and white clothed tables. Roberta and friends soon arrived and we all sat down to start our evening of fun and amazing dining.

Here is the menu that Roberta selected for us:

LA SCARPETTA
Sauce made with fresh tomatoes flavored with a variety of herbs and eaten with pieces of grilled bread called abbrustolito. Scarpetta means “little shoe” in Italian. Italian tradition calls for dipping the bread into the sauce and using it like a small shoe for scooping up the sauce.

ANTIPASTO REFECTORIUM
Mixed meat/cheese platter with prosciutto, salami, capocollo (salami made with pork neck (an Umbrian specialty), goose liver and fresh local sheep’s cheese; bruschetta with tomatoes, garlic and basil; sweet onion jam and peach jam.

PRIMO
Pici with goose meat sauce or Pici with truffles.
Pici pasta is an Umbrian specialty and are very thick, long, hand rolled noodles.

SECONDO
Mixed platter of grilled meats including veal, sausage, and pork
Brochette of chicken breast cooked with mixed herbs

CONTORNI
Fire roasted potatoes
Grilled mixed vegetable with herbs

DOLCE
Sacher Torte – a unique chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam and a chocolate glaze. The Sacher torte is named for Austrian Franz Sacher who invented this famous cake in 1832

Caffè and liqueur (amaro)

Umbrian red wine

Needless to say, it was a fulfilling evening, in many ways, complete with good food and good friends. We said our good-byes to Luca and his staff and stepped out into the clear Umbrian night. The lights subtly illuminating the stone structure of Il Convento in Campagna were simply magical, reminding us of how lucky we are to have Umbria in our life.

PS: Our stay this time was in Il Fienile 1. Check it out!

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The Cinque Terre Will Be Healed

Posted on November 16, 2011 by

It was just one month ago, on October 17th.  We took the short train trip from Manarola to Vernazza in the Cinque Terre.  It was a warm and sunny day and the main street of Vernazza was alive with visitors, taking pictures and moving from shop to shop.  We stopped in one to look for a gift for a friend.

We walked down to the harbor and noticed how blue and clear the water was.  We also saw, as we had many times in the past, how welcoming the residents of this village are to the many visitors they receive.

I snapped a few photos of my own:

Eight days later Vernazza and neighboring Monterosso were ravaged by floods that seemed to appear out of nowhere.  Each town was buried in a devastating cover of mud and debris and nine lives were lost.

Now the herculean efforts are underway and there is an outpouring of support to these fragile villages.  The residents, instead of welcoming visitors, are in for a tough winter of digging and rebuilding before the spring arrives.  Here is where you can learn more:

http://helprestorecinqueterre.wordpress.com/

http://savevernazza.com/


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Valle dei Sogni and the Enchantment of Todi

Posted on November 10, 2011 by

It was a little windy when we got out of the car. This October was a different from others because the warm weather lasted so long this year. Pools were open longer and there was almost no rain for months. Some said it was good for the wine grapes but maybe bad for the olives. Whatever the case, it did nothing to spoil the native charm of Umbria.

The owners of Valle dei Sogni greeted us at the parking area and offered a warm Italian welcome with lots of smiles and kind words. It’s something they do very well here–make you feel welcome. They were clearly eager to show us the magnificent estate and we could sense their feeling of pride.

Click to enlargeAs we entered the front door, we immediately grasped why this is such a unique place. Formerly a traditional farming estate, it has been crafted into one of the most comfortable and aesthetically pleasing villas in Umbria.  The main villa can be rented alone or with its accompanying building for groups ranging from six to sixteen guests.

Valle dei Sogni is rich with oil paintings, sculptures, and carefully chosen antique pieces. Its amenities include a large and well-equipped kitchen, air conditioning, high speed Internet, an abundant herb garden and a panoramic pool. For outside meals, there is a second kitchen in the pool house.

The countryside here is blessed with gently rolling hills that provide elegant views of the noble villas in the distance. The orientation of the garden is toward Sismano Castle, which offers a gentle backdrop for the peaceful and lingering sunsets for which Italy is well known. It’s one of those things that keeps bringing us back.

The ancient city of Todi is 15 kilometers away and is easily reached by country roads. It has been touted as both the ‘most sustainable’ and ‘most livable’ city in the world. While that is much to live up to, it is a distinction well deserved. Todi never fails to charm and engage, with its marvelous Duomo, museums, shops and restaurants. Because of its appeal, it has become a mecca for artists and intellectuals from around the world, many of whom live in the neighboring estates.

If you are contemplating a stay in Umbria, consider the benefits of staying in a picture perfect country landscape. Perhaps in a villa that is at once elegant, accessible and inviting.

A place like Valle dei Sogni.

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